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Climbing • Policies

Revised, January 15, 2000

Table of Contents

  1. Climbing Committee
    1. Climbing Committee Responsibilities
  2. Basic Climbing
    1. Basic Climbing Course
      1. Eligibility and Application Process
      2. Lecture and Field Trip Requirements
      3. Graduation Requirements
      4. Course Extension
    2. Basic Climbing Course Equivalency
    3. Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor Requirements
      1. Initial Requirements
      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
  3. Intermediate Climbing
    1. Intermediate Climbing Course
      1. Eligibility and Application Process
      2. Lecture and Field Trip Requirements
      3. Graduation Requirements
      4. Course Extension
    2. Intermediate Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor Requirements
      1. Initial Requirements
      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
    3. Intermediate Climbing Course Equivalency
  4. Climbs
    1. Selection and Approval of Climbs
      1. Basic Climbs
      2. Club Climbs
      3. Intermediate Climbs
    2. Basic Climb Leader Requirements
      1. Initial Requirements
      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
    3. Intermediate Climb Leader Requirements
      1. Initial Requirements
      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
    4. Expectations of Leaders
    5. Expectations of Participants
  5. Equipment
    1. Ropes
    2. Avalanche Rescue Beacons
  6. Records
    1. Climb Leader and Field Trip Instructor List
      1. Additions
      2. Removals
      3. Reinstatements
  1. Climbing Committee

    2. The Mountaineers - Everett Branch Bylaws empower the membership to create standing committees for conducting the ongoing activities of the Branch. The Climbing Committee, a standing committee of the Mountaineers - Everett Branch, is responsible for conducting the climbing activity as described in its charter, Policy 207 of the Branch Operating Manual. The primary function of the Everett Branch Climbing Committee is to offer the Basic and Intermediate Climbing Courses, conduct special seminars, and to facilitate climbing activity within the Everett Branch.

    The Climbing Committee shall consist of a Chairperson, appointed by the Everett Branch Chair, and other committee members which the Committee Chairperson will appoint to carry out the Committee's responsibilities. All Committee members must be Basic Climbing Course graduates or equivalents.

    The Committee shall meet on a regular basis, as determined by the members. These Climbing Committee Policies shall govern those activities that it sponsors.

    1. Climbing Committee Responsibilities
      1. Conduct climbing courses and seminars. This includes establishing eligibility requirements for the courses as well as their equivalency, if offered.
      2. Set fees for the seminars, Climbing Courses, and Course equivalency certification. The Committee will recommend fees based upon anticipated revenue and expenses of the Committee on a yearly basis.
      3. Approve or reject Climbing Course graduation and equivalency petitions.
      4. Establish leader and instructor qualifications, and maintain a current Climb Leader and Field Trip Instructor list.
      5. Ensure proper maintenance and replacement of ropes and other climbing equipment owned by the Committee.
      6. Review climbing accidents originating from trips sponsored by the Climbing Committee and make recommendations as appropriate.
      7. Administer climbing awards as requested by the Branch.
      8. Maintain Climbing Committee Policies.
  2. Basic Climbing

    3. The Basic Climbing subcommittee shall be responsible for conducting the Basic Climbing Course; and for selection and approval of Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructors. As time and demand permits, the subcommittee may offer Basic Climbing Course Equivalency and a Basic Climbing Skills Refresher Course.

    The subcommittee shall, as a minimum, consist of the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator, the Basic Lectures Focal and the Basic Field Trips Focal. The Climbs Coordinator, Records Coordinator and Seminars Coordinator shall assist the subcommittee in conducting their activities.

    1. Basic Climbing Course

        2.
      1. Eligibility and Application Process
        1. Course is open to Mountaineers members who are 18 years or older at the time of registration.
        2. Applicants must complete course application, sign appropriate waiver and release forms, and pay course fee.
        3. If the number of qualified applicants exceeds the predetermined class size, priority will be given to Everett branch members and Snohomish County residents, in that order. Remaining positions will be allocated by lottery.
        4. Applicants are subject to Climbing Committee approval.

      2. Lecture and Field Trip Requirements
        1. Due to the large number of applicants, restricted class size, and a limited number of volunteer instructors, we ask that applicants consider these policies carefully and abide by them for the duration of the course.
        2. Attendance is mandatory for all lectures and field trips and must be attended sequentially. The course builds on the successive and successful completion of each lecture and field trip. Students earn the right to attend field trips based on their participation in earlier lectures and trips.
        3. Attendance at the first lecture is mandatory. If the registered student is not present, his or her spot in the class will be given to a student on the waiting list who is present. Role call is taken at 7 p.m. sharp. Without exception, latecomers will be dropped from the course.
        4. Attendance at the first field trip is mandatory. Only the Everett branch offers the Conditioning Field Trip. Therefore, no make-up is allowed and the absent student will be dropped from the class.
        5. Lectures begin at 7 p.m. All students are required to sign in by 7 p.m. If someone arrives between 7:01 to 7:29 they are tardy. Students can be tardy twice and are dropped from the course the third time they are late. Tardy students must also write a summary of the missed lecture and turn it in to the course instructor at the following lecture.
        6. Any student who arrives to a lecture at 7:30 or later is considered absent. The absent student must make up the missed lecture. Students are also required to stay until the lecture is over. If a student leaves a lecture early, no credit will be given and the student will have to make up the lecture. Only one absence is allowed before the student is dropped from the course. Students can miss one field trip before being dropped from the course.
        7. Prior to participating at a field trip, students must attend the lecture(s) relevant to that field trip.
        8. Students can make up one lecture and one field trip (excluding the first lecture and trip). It is the student¡s responsibility to arrange their make up. Basic course volunteer instructors do not conduct individual sessions for those students who miss lectures or field trips. Students can sometimes attend field trips with another Mountaineer branch, although this is often difficult because the trips must be done sequentially. Attendance and performance at the field trip must be documented and given to the Everett Basic class record keeper.
        9. Missed lectures can be made up in a variety of ways including writing a report that covers the missed lecture material. The make up proposal and a completion date should be submitted to a course instructor or record keeper for approval.
        10. Only students currently enrolled in a Basic Climbing Course may attend and participate in Basic field trips. Students in Basic Climbing Courses offered by other Mountaineers branches may participate with the prior approval of the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator.
        11. Students who do not have the required clothing and equipment at each field trip will not be allowed to participate. UIAA-approved climbing helmets must be worn by students and instructors at all field trips.
        12. A student must satisfactorily demonstrate all skills listed in the field trip booklet and items must be signed off by an approved instructor.
        13. In situations of question, the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator (or their designee) has the final authority in determining satisfactory performance.
        14. The mid-term and final exams consist of two parts, written and practical. A score of 75 percent is required on the written part and only one task can be missed to pass the practical part. Any student who fails to pass the mid-term will be dropped from the course. Passing grades in both exams are required to graduate. Note also that all lectures and field trips must be made up before the final exam.
        15. A student must attend all lectures, satisfactorily complete all field trips, be tested for practical skills and technical knowledge, and be a current Mountaineers member before participating on Basic Climbs.

      3. Graduation Requirements
        1. Complete all lectures and field trips.
        2. Achieve or exceed the minimum overall grade which is based upon satisfactory completion of field trips and upon the tests for practical skills and technical knowledge. The minimum overall grade and its composition are described in the current year’s Basic Climbing Course syllabus.
        3. Be a Mountaineers member by the final exam.
        4. Have current MOFA certification.
        5. Summit on 3 approved Basic climbs, including at least one Rock and one Glacier climb. The climb leader has final authority in determining satisfactory performance on climbs.
        6. Fulfill requirements by October 15th of the course year.
        7. Petition the Climbing Committee via the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator when requirements have been completed. All petitions for graduation are due no later than October 15th of the course year. Petitions for graduation are subject to Climbing Committee approval.

      4. Course Extension
        1. Students unable to meet course requirements during the year of application must apply in writing to the Climbing Committee for an extension by October 15th of the course year.
        2. Requests for course extensions are reviewed by the Committee and are granted for a period of one year.
        3. The committee will determine and select appropriate lectures and field trips to be completed by applicant.
        4. Extension candidate must pass the Practical Skills Test and written final exam, and hold a current MOFA card, and complete three required climbs after the extension approval.

    2. Basic Climbing Course Equivalency
      1. Petitioner will complete application form and submit to the Climbing Committee for review. Petitioner must be a Mountaineers member at the time of application.
      2. If the application is accepted, petitioner will pay course fee and receive a list of selected lectures and/or field trips to attend (if appropriate).
      3. Petitioner must pass the Practical Skills Test and written final exam, hold a current MOFA card, and complete three required climbs.
      4. Fulfill requirements by October 15th in the year of registration.
      5. Submit graduation petition in writing to the Committee by October 15th in the year of registration.
      6. Petition is subject to Climbing Committee approval.

    3. Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor Requirements

      4. Anyone meeting the following criteria may be authorized to instruct at Mountaineers - Everett Branch Basic Climbing Course field trips. The Climbing Committee may waive any of the requirements except Mountaineers membership.

      1. Initial Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Graduate of a Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course or have Basic Climbing Course equivalency.
        3. Attend the Mountaineers - Everett Branch Instructor Review field trip.
        4. Have current MOFA certification.

      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Attend the Mountaineers - Everett Branch Instructor Review field trip at least once every five years.
        3. Instruct at two climbing course (Basic or Intermediate) field trips within the last three years.
        4. Approval of the Climbing Committee.
  3. Intermediate Climbing

    4. The Intermediate Climbing subcommittee shall be responsible for conducting the Intermediate Climbing Course; and for selection and approval of Intermediate Climbing Course Field Trip Instructors.

    The subcommittee shall, as a minimum, consist of the Intermediate Climbing Course Coordinator, the Intermediate Lectures Focal and the Intermediate Field Trips Focal. The Climbs Coordinator, Records Coordinator and Seminars Coordinator shall assist the subcommittee in conducting their activities.

    1. Intermediate Climbing Course

        2.
      1. Eligibility and Application Process
        1. Course is open to Mountaineers members who have graduated from a Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course or have Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course equivalency.
        2. Applicants must complete course application and pay course fee. Course fee is non-refundable after acceptance into the course.
        3. Applicants must demonstrate acceptable performance at the Fundamentals Review field trip.
        4. Final acceptance into the Intermediate Climbing Course is determined by Climbing Committee approval.
        5. Intermediate Climbing Course size is limited to 16 individuals. Priority will be given based on Everett Branch membership, current Everett Branch Climb Leader status, demonstrated abilities at Fundamentals Review Field Trip, number of club experience climbs and club involvement.

      2. Lecture and Field Trip Requirements
        1. Participants must attend all lectures and field trips within the first year or have Intermediate Course Coordinator prior approval to be completed in second year.
        2. Up to one Ice and one Rock field trip may be made up with another Mountaineers’ Intermediate Climbing Course with Intermediate Climbing Course Coordinator prior approval. Student is required to obtain a written statement from field trip leader that their performance was acceptable.
        3. Winter Bivouac Field Trip and Avalanche Course is required to be completed through the Everett Branch.

      3. Graduation Requirements
        1. Complete all lectures and field trips in the first year.
        2. Instruct at each Basic Climbing Course field trip within 3 years of acceptance into the course.
        3. Lead and summit on four approved Basic climbs and one approved Club Climb after acceptance into the course. These five climbs must include at least 2 Rock and 2 Glacier climbs and be completed within five years. Alternatively, lead and summit on four of five of the prior listed climbs and lead one Basic Climbing Course field trip. Climbs led as a "leader-in-training" do not count toward fulfillment of this requirement.
        4. Summit on 5 approved Intermediate climbs, including at least 2 Rock and 2 Ice climbs, within 5 years. Intermediate students are expected to swing leads to receive credit. The climb leader has final authority in determining satisfactory performance on a climb.
        5. Summit on 3 Winter climbs, of which one must be an overnight trip, within 5 years. The climb leader has final authority in determining satisfactory performance on a climb.
        6. Maintain MOFA certification from course acceptance through course graduation.
        7. Petition the Climbing Committee via the Intermediate Climbing Course Coordinator when requirements have been completed. All Intermediate Climbing Course petitions are due no later than October 15th of the year to be considered for graduation. Petitions for graduation are subject to Climbing Committee approval.

      4. Course Extension
        1. Any student who is unable to complete the course requirements within five years may apply in writing to the Intermediate Course Coordinator for an extension by October 15th of the fifth year.
        2. A written response shall be returned stating if an extension has been granted. If an extension is granted, the letter will also outline the length of the extension and the requirements to be fulfilled during the extension period.
        3. All requirements for graduation at the time the individual started the course must be completed in addition to any additional requirements stated in the written response.

    2. Intermediate Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor Requirements

      3. Anyone meeting the following criteria will be authorized to instruct at Mountaineers - Everett Branch Intermediate Climbing Course field trips. The Climbing Committee may waive any of the requirements except Mountaineers membership.

      1. Initial Requirements
        1. Meet all initial requirements for Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructors.
        2. Successful completion of all Intermediate Climbing Course lectures and field trips pertaining to the activity which the person will instruct (e.g., rock climbing, ice climbing).
        3. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Instruct at one Intermediate Climbing Course field trip within the last three years.
        3. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

    3. Intermediate Climbing Course Equivalency

      4. At this time the committee does not offer Intermediate Climbing Course Equivalency.

  4. Climbs

    5. The Climbs subcommittee shall be responsible for (a) selection and approval of climbs; (b) establishing climb leader qualifications; (c) recruiting new climb leaders; (d) soliciting climb leaders to lead climbs; (e) publishing scheduled climbs. The subcommittee shall also support the Basic Climbs and Intermediate Climbs subcommittees to assist students in fulfilling their course graduation requirements.

    1. Selection and Approval of Climbs
      1. The Climbs Coordinator will maintain and update editions of both the Basic and Intermediate Climbs Guides.
      2. Leaders will select climbs from either established list.
      3. All climbs require pre-approval. The Climbs Coordinator will regularly solicit climbs from the climb leaders. Any climb leader who would like to lead an approved climb on the spur of the moment must obtain approval from the Climbs Coordinator, the Climbing Committee Chair, the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator, or the Intermediate Course Coordinator.
      4. Leaders wishing to lead climbs not listed in the Climbs Guides can obtain approval by contacting the Climbs Coordinator, the Climbing Committee Chair, or the Climbing Course Coordinator to which the climb would apply.

      1. Basic Climbs
        1. Basic Rock climbs must be at least 2 roped pitches in length and at least class 4 rating. A "pitch" is understood to mean the maximum usable rope length between belay points.
        2. Basic Glacier climbs must be a minimum of one-half day spent on the glacier. A minimum of two rope teams is required for Basic Glacier climbs.
        3. Basic Alpine climbs are aesthetically pleasant climbs that offer some rock or some glacier climbing or both, but generally not enough of either to count as a Basic Rock or Basic Glacier climb. Basic Alpine climbs must still be roped climbs.
        4. Basic climbs are open to Basic Climbing Course students and graduates, and to Basic Climbing Course equivalents.

      2. Club Climbs
        1. Club climbs are open to Basic Climbing Course graduates and equivalents. Club climbs do not fulfill Basic Climbing Course requirements.

      3. Intermediate Climbs
        1. Intermediate climbs must be from the current Intermediate Climbs Guide or meet one of the following criteria. All climbs must be pre-approved by the Climbs Coordinator, the Climbing Committee Chair, the Intermediate Climbing Course Coordinator or the Basic Climbing Course Coordinator.
        2. Intermediate Rock climbs must be at least Grade II, have a Class 5 rating and be three pitches in length.
        3. Intermediate Ice climbs must be at least Grade II and must involve one-half day of technical ice climbing. The route must be in condition and not just a snow climb.
        4. Intermediate Winter climbs must be at least Grade I and have a Class 3 rating. Winter climbs are scheduled from Thanksgiving through March 21st.
        5. Intermediate climbs are open only to Intermediate Climbing Course students, Intermediate Climbing Course graduates and Intermediate Climb Leaders. One additional individual may participate on an Intermediate climb who is a current Mountaineers member, is a Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course graduate or has Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course equivalency and has the approval of the Climb Leader.
    2. Basic Climb Leader Requirements

      3. Anyone meeting the following criteria will be authorized to lead Basic and Club climbs for the Mountaineers - Everett Branch. The Climbing Committee may waive any of the requirements except Mountaineers membership.

      1. Initial Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Graduate of a Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course or have Basic Climbing Course equivalency.
        3. Organize and lead two Basic climbs (one Rock and one Glacier) as a "leader-in-training" under the supervision of an approved climb leader. (The three Basic climbs done in fulfillment of the requirements for Basic Climbing Course graduation may not be used to meet this requirement.) These two climbs must be supervised by two different approved climb leaders.
        4. Current Mountaineering-Oriented First Aid (MOFA) certification.
        5. Attend the Mountaineers - Everett Branch Leadership Seminar, or obtain a waiver from the Climbs Coordinator or the Climbing Committee Chair.
        6. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Lead two climbs (Basic, Club, or Intermediate) within the last three years. A serious attempt that does not summit is sufficient to meet this requirement.
        3. Attend the Mountaineers - Everett Branch Instructor Review field trip at least once every five years.
        4. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

    3. Intermediate Climb Leader Requirements

      4. Anyone meeting the following criteria will be authorized to lead Intermediate climbs for the Mountaineers - Everett Branch. The Climbing Committee may waive any of the requirements except Mountaineers membership.

      1. Initial Requirement
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Graduate of a Mountaineers Basic Climbing Course or have Basic Climbing Course equivalency.
        3. Successful completion of all Intermediate Climbing Course lectures and field trips.
        4. Participate on two Intermediate climbs in which the leader evaluates you as being capable of leading that climb.
        5. Current Mountaineering-Oriented First Aid (MOFA) certification.
        6. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

      2. Continuing Participation Requirements
        1. Current Mountaineers member.
        2. Lead two climbs (Basic, Club, or Intermediate) within the last three years. A serious attempt that does not summit is sufficient to meet this requirement.
        3. Approval of the Climbing Committee.

    4. Expectations of Leaders
      1. Be competent to lead the climb.
      2. Plan meeting times and location, possible campsites, and approximate return time. Leave plans with a responsible person who can activate a rescue if necessary.
      3. Gain familiarity with the route through study of maps and guidebooks, and by talking to rangers or others who have climbed the route. Secure permit if required.
      4. Advise participants of required individual gear, and coordinate group gear.
      5. Appoint a first aid leader in case of emergency.
      6. Prohibit unprepared and incompetent participants from climbing.
      7. Exemplify safe climbing practices.
      8. Submit to the Records Coordinator a climb report for each climb led, regardless of whether the summit was reached.
      9. If an accident requiring a rescue occurs, immediately after the rescue has been initiated, report the accident to The Mountaineers by calling the emergency pager at 206-977-9700. Later, submit to the Records Coordinator a written report of the accident, using the standard accident report form.

    5. Expectations of Participants
      1. Be competent in basic climbing skills.
      2. Gain familiarity with the route through maps, guidebooks and other climbers.
      3. Bring required equipment, and carry some group gear.
      4. Be physically and mentally fit for the climb.
      5. Do not separate the party, except at the request of the leader.
      6. Comply with the leader’s requests (assuming they are consistent with safe climbing practices).
      7. Be a member of The Mountaineers or a guest approved by the Everett Climbing Committee Chair.
  5. Equipment

    6. The Equipment subcommittee stores and manages ropes and other Climbing Committee equipment (slide projector, rescue sled, etc.). This equipment is available for use at club-sponsored activities such as course field trips and climbs.

    1. Ropes
      1. New ropes will be purchased annually to meet course and branch climbing demands.
      2. New ropes will be used for Intermediate Rock I and Rock II field trips, and Intermediate climbs. (At the discretion of the field trip leader, older ropes may be used for Fundamentals Review, Winter Bivouac and Ice field trips.)
      3. Ropes over 1 year old, but less than 2 years old, will be used for Intermediate and Club climbs.
      4. Ropes which are 2 years old will be used for Basic climbs. Ropes between 3 and 5 years old will be used for Basic field trips.
      5. Ropes will be discarded when they are 5 years old.
      6. All ropes will be inspected annually by the Equipment Manager and all damaged ropes will be removed from climbing use.
      7. Ropes which are retired for climbing purposes may be retained for Basic Climbing Course knot-tying practice.

    2. Avalanche Rescue Beacons

      3. Avalanche Rescue Beacons (ARBs) are recommended for winter climbs. Climb leaders may, at their discretion, require ARBs on the climbs they lead. If ARBs are used on a climb, the climb leader is responsible for ensuring that the ARBs used by the climbers are compatible.

  6. Records

    7. The Records subcommittee shall be responsible for keeping the records of the Climbing Committee, climb leaders, field trips instructors and climbing activities (climbs, seminars, etc.).

    1. Climb Leader and Field Trip Instructor List

      1. Additions
        1. Climbers who meet the initial requirements for Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor are eligible to be Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructors. Recent Basic Climbing Course graduates and others who meet the requirements may, at the discretion of the Climbing Committee, automatically be added to the Climb Leader List as a Basic Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor.
        2. Climbers wishing to be added to the Climb Leader List as a Basic Climb Leader, Intermediate Climbing Course Field Trip Instructor, or Intermediate Climb Leader must petition the Climbing Committee. Applicants must meet the initial requirements for the desired qualification. The petition must include the following information.
          • Biographical Data
            Name
            Address
            Home telephone number
            Desired qualification (Basic Climb Leader, Intermediate Climbing Course Field Trip
            Instructor, or Intermediate Climb Leader)
          • Education/Training
            Climbing courses: Specify course title, year graduated, and branch.
            Climbing seminars: Specify seminar title, date, and sponsoring organization.
            MOFA: Attach a copy of certification card.
          • Experience
            Field trips: List all field trips at which you instructed.
            Climbs: List the climbs which meet the climb requirements specified in the climb leader requirements policy. For each climb, include name of peak, ascent route, date, and climb leader name.
          • References
            List names and telephone numbers of three branch members who are qualified to lead climbs at the level for which you are applying. These references must have climbed with you and be able to attest to your qualification to lead or instruct at the desired level.
        3. The Climbing Committee will review and validate petitions, then approve or reject the petition. Applicants will be notified of the committee's decision.

      2. Removals
        1. Climb leaders and field trip instructors may be removed from the Climb Leader List for any of the following reasons.
        2. Request of the individual.
        3. Failure to meet the continuing participation requirements for climb leaders or field trip instructors.
        4. Complaint or expressed concern of any club member. In this situation, the Climbing Committee Chair or his/her designate will investigate the complaint and discuss it with the leader. The chair may, at his/her discretion, discuss the situation with other Climbing Committee members. Involuntary removal from the leader list, however, requires a majority vote of the Climbing Committee.
        5. Violation of club or branch climbing policies, irresponsible conduct, or flagrant safety violations. After validating the alleged conduct, the Climbing Committee Chair or his/her designate may, at his/her discretion, unilaterally remove the leader from the Climb Leader List. If the chair revokes a leader's authorization to lead climbs or instruct at field trips, the Climbing Committee must approve by majority vote the chair's action at the next meeting of the Climbing Committee.

      3. Reinstatements
        1. Climb leaders who have been removed from the leader list for failing to meet the continuing participation requirements may be reinstated by the Climbing Committee upon meeting the requirements. No petition is required if the requirements are fulfilled within one year of removal.

 

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