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History

The Everett Mountaineers -- since 1910!

Hinman starts new branch

The Mountaineers were created in 1906 as an offshoot of the Mazamas, an Oregon climbing club. Dr. Harry B. Hinman, a dentist who lived in Everett, enjoyed the mountains immensely. Hinman met Asahel Curtis of The Mountaineers, by chance, on the slopes of Mt Rainier at Ruse's Camp in August, 1909. Dr. Hinman joined The Mountaineers, and proposed an Everett group of the club so they could have local walks similar to the group in Seattle.

So in 1910, Hinman started up an unofficial group of Mountaineers. In those days, taking the Interurban to Seattle took considerable time, so it made sense to form a local branch. There were 40 members living in Everett and five in outlying areas. That year, nine of them joined the large group of The Mountaineers to summit Glacier Peak. Hinman was captain of "D Company" on that trip, which had 57 climbers. His wife was one of the D company members. Other 1910 trips included a walk to Martha Lake, Silver Lake, and Beverley with 103 people. (Now we limit most Everett trips to 8 or 12 people!) (See a copy of 1910 The Mountaineer)

The next year, The Mountaineers created the first official branch in Everett. Hinman was made a director of The Mountaineers. For 1912, the Everett branch went on 22 local walks, and did three-day trips to Mount Index and Whitehorse Mountain. Several hundred people came to see their Everett lectures on the local mountains.

In 1913, Hinman's group climbed to the summit of Whitehorse Mountain. They hoped to have the first ascent, but didn't realize it had been climbed in 1909. They had a group of 65 go to Monte Cristo for their summer outing in 1918.

Photos of early Mountaineer trips, some taken by Hinman

Everett Branch over the decades

The group called the "Trailers" in 1914 had social gatherings every two weeks. Others met to view stereooptican views. The annual banquet and salmon bake started by the early 1950's.

The first Peak Pins award started in 1932. They included peaks in the Monte Cristo, Darrington, and Index groups. In 1946 you could garner a lookout pin list, by hiking to the summits of 12 out of 15 peaks in that list.

1939 must have been a rough year. Perhaps Everett was in a financial slump. The Mountaineer reported that "the annual quota of climbs and walks were of outstanding interest but were not well supported by our members, though a good number of Seattle members took advantage of them".

In 1956, some tidbits from The Mountaineer include: 20 mile overnight snowshoe trip from Silverton to Darrington via Deer Creek; first snowshoe climb of Mount Persis; 30 people took the Climbing course, with Round Mountain as the first experience climb; eigth-recorded ascent of Mount Johannesburg (via north face and east col); the Salmon Bake; potluck at Legion Park; Annual Banquet; $408.10 dues, $712 initiation fees, $430.55 income,

Everett's Basic Climbing started as a two-year course in 1946. Some of the big early achievements were the 1956 circling of Mount Shuksan, and the 1958 first ascents of the north face of Three Fingers and northwest ridge of Kyes Peak.

Climbing was extremely popular in the 70's fitness boom. In 1976 they had to limit the enrollment in Basic Climbing course for the first time. The Intermediate Climbing course started in 1977. One major first ascent from that group in 1988 was the north face of Whitechuck Mountain.

The Everett Branch has been very active in conservation throughout the decades. This includes the grass roots efforts to create the North Cascades National Park and several wilderness areas. The Lookout and Trail Maintenance people rebuilt the Mt Pilchuck lookout in 1989, and Heybrook lookout in 2002.

And what about Dr. Hinman? A unusually massive peak midway between La Bohn Gap and Mount Daniel stands at 7,492 feet. You can see this peak from many summits in the Cascade Range. It's perhaps the gentlest peak of its size in the Cascades, and we now call it Mount Hinman for our branch founder. who had led a trip for The Mountaineers to the massive Mount Stuart in 1914. Mount Hinman had been called the West Peak of Daniel by it's first ascent in 1928.

1910 Mountaineers (from Everett)

Big Four, c. 1900. George W. Kirk

From the Nov 1910 list in the 1910 version of The Mountaineer, Vol III

Arthur Bailey* 1610 Hewitt Ave
Sadie Baird 3016 Colby Ave
S.G. Baker 2812 Colby Ave
Mary Burkhart 2711 Hoyt Ave
N.B. Challacomb 2601 Hoyt Ave
H.I. Chatterton YMCA
Dorcas L Clarke 2129 Rucker Ave
Everett Clark* 2129 Rucker Ave
Vinnie M Cole 2412 Baker Ave
Mildred Devereux 2216 Hoyt Ave
R. R. Ebersold 3112 Rockefeller Ave
Lloyd F Fairbrook 1521 Grand Ave
Jasper M Gould 3201 Pine Ave
John Hessmer YMCA
Frank R Hill 2516 Rucker Ave
Dr. H.B. Hinman 2605 Baker Ave
Kate L Hocking 2711 Hoyt Ave
Maurice D Joyce 1815 Hoyt Ave
A Keay 3201 Norton Ave
D.W. Kinney 2108 Rucker Ave
Emma H Koller 2608 Rockefeller Ave
Angelica Martin* Box 495
C. H. Muzzall 1711½ Ave
V.M. Muzzall 1711½ Ave
S.E. Paine* 2020 Wetmore Ave
Anna Remer Bell's Court
E.E. Searles 2812 Rockefeller Ave
Helen F. Segwick 1719 Hoyt Ave
Floca C. Sherwood 2407 Everett Ave
J.E. Sipprell c/o Sherman Clay Co.
Angie E. Sparks 1909 Rockefeller Ave
A.E. Sparks 2122 Rucker Ave
Marion A Spaulding 1901 Rockefeller Ave
Geo. W. Stryker
Ana M. Thompson 2607 Everett Ave
D.A. Thornburg 1631 Rucker Ave
J.R. Tidball Colby Bldg
Brittania G. Torrey* 2414 Hoyt Ave
Ida Welch 2711 Hoyt Ave
Wm. F. West Am. Nat'l Bank Bldg
Alexia White Box 495
Martha M. Wick 2606 Rockefeller Ave
C.A. Wintermute 2608 Rockefeller Ave

* Was on the 1910 Glacier Peak trip

More about Hinman

Harry B. (Benson?) Hinman was born in Feb 15, 1870, in Montour Falls, Schuyler County, New York. He graduated from the University of Michigan, and married Catherine in 1895. After having three children and adopting another in Ohio, he moved to Everett by 1910 and had another child. Dr. Hinman was accepted for Y.M.C.A. service in Jul 1918, and sailed for overseas 1 Sep. Was stationed in southern France until Jan 1919 and was then transferred to the Army of Occupation, where he acted as an escort on various trips made by American soldiers along the Rhine. He returned to Everett in Aug 1919. He died May 28, 1944, Katherine died May 23, 1948 and both were buried in Evergreen Cemetery. (references).

Peak Pins awards

The Everett Pin Peaks Award symbolizes proficiency in basic mountaineering, demonstrated by ascending peaks in three geographical groups within Snohomish County. Each group consists of seven peaks in the Index, Monte Cristo, and Darrington areas. No group embraces all the good or most difficult summits in its area, but each is made up of representative climbs.

Established in 1932, the award was conceived as pins of iron, silver, and gold. It is doubtful that an iron pin was ever awarded, however. For some reason -- probably discretion by the designer -- bronze pins were awarded as early as 1933-34. Originally, the climber was only allowed to keep one pin. The first pin was returned to the Branch when the silver was earned. Likewise, the silver was returned for the gold which finally became the climber's permanent property. This strictly economical practice of re-using pins eventually faded as climbers began keeping them all.

Record keeper

In another bygone provision, the original award stipulated that "records pertaining to these pins shall be kept by the woman longest a member of the club."

Higgins, then Round, then Chaval

Mt. Higgins, an original Darrington peak, was among several peaks approved subject to further scouting. But Higgins was not a pin peak for long, as in 1933 the register intended for that summit was placed on nearby Round Mountain instead. Round Mountain lasted until 1974 when it was replaced by Mt. Chaval, a climb of considerably more substance. Overtures about replacing other peaks, particularly Persis and Stickney, have occasionally surfaced, but without consensus.

Eligibility (as of 1992)

Any Mountaineer who makes 6 successful climbs from any group of 7 peaks is eligible to receive a pin. The pins awarded are bronze for the first group completed, silver for the second, and gold for the third. While the order that groups are completed does not matter, no recognition is given for climbing 6 peaks distributed over more than one group or for completing the same group multiple times.

To qualify, ascents must be made while the climber is a Mountaineer or is with a Mountaineer-sponsored trip. Private trips are acceptable provided they comply with the Mountaineer Climbing Code. To receive the award the applicant must petition the Climbing Committee listing, for each peak climbed, the date of the trip and name of the leader. The climber's written statement shall be accepted as evidence that summits were reached successfully. Presentation The Climbing Committee Chair or his/her designee present the pins at the Annual Banquet. Attendance at the banquet is not required to receive the award, however.

The Everett Pin Peaks listed by their groups are:

Index Monte Cristo Darrington
Mt. Stickney Columbia Peak Liberty Peak
Mt. Index Vesper Peak Whitehorse Mtn.
Gunn Peak Del Campo Peak Mt. Chaval
Mt. Baring Cadet Peak Mt. Jumbo
Mt. Persis Sloan Peak Whitechuck Mtn.
Spire Peak Silvertip Peak Mt. Pugh
Merchant Peak Big Four Mtn. Three Fingers Mtn. (North Summit)

Historical trivia from past Everett newsletters

Oct 1946 -- Lookout Peak award and Ropes

The Everett Mountaineers met at the home of Casey and Lolita Jones with Harold Sievers as Chairman. A new pin award was decided upon and named the "Valley Pounders" [ed. now called the "Lookout Peak" award]. It was to be awarded to climbers who climbed any 12 of 15 peaks which were to be determined by a committee. The Branch also authorized the purchase of one or two climbing ropes for use by members. The Climbing Chairman was to be in charge of the equipment. A fee of 15¢ was charged each guest to cover the cost of refreshments for the meeting.

1947 -- Kyes Peak renaming

Chairman Harold Sievers called the January 1947 meeting to order at the Everett Public Library Auditorium. During the meeting, the matter of renaming Goblin Peak, in the Monte Cristo District, after James Kyes was brought up. A letter from Congressman Jackson was read regarding this matter. Frank Elder proposed that it would be fitting for The Mountaineers to place a plaque on the summit in honor of James Kyes.

In September 1947, Harold Sievers received a letter from Washington D.C. stating that Goblin Peak is now officially Kyes Peak. John Leyman reported on the climb to Kyes Peak. In spite of bad weather, a dedication was made by C. O. Davis, with remarks and a flag in memory of James Kyes. Mr. Lehman also stated a bronze plaque had been ordered for the dedication ceremony but ithad been broken when finishing it and a replacement had not arrived in time for the ceremony. Since the cost of the plaque woule be between $25 and $30 and because a similar article had been destroyed in the past, it was decided to drop the matter of placing a plaque on Kyes Peak. It was decided that a flag be placed on the peak on each climb. A piece of tin with James Kyes signature had been found and would be placed in one of the lodges as a proper and fitting memorial.

Sept 1947 -- Cabins

The Board of Trustees, recognizing the need for accommodations for skiers, voted to build two ski cabins, one at Mt. Baker and one at Stevens Pass. Committees were appointed, sites obtained, and building plans were drawn and accepted. Money was appropriated, $2600 for each cabin. Work had already been started at Stevens Pass, but the building of the cabin would not start until spring, at which time work would also be started at the Baker Ski site. A new site had also been obtained at Snoqualimie Pass where a large and better lodge would be built to replace the lodge that burned down several years before.

Nov 1951 -- Hiking Commiteee new name

A motion was made and carried to change the name of the Local Walks Committee to the Hiking Committee. Climbing classes are being held in Seattle and a group from Everett will be apppointed to attend. Later there will be classes held here for those who are interested.

There are 91 members in the Everett Branch and members were urged to attend the Annual Banquet to be held December 1 at the Weyerhauser Mill B Cafeteria.

Feb, 1952 -- Purchase site at Mt Pilchuck?

Casey Jones, Trustee, said the club was interested in buying or leasing a site in the Mt. Pilchuck Ski Area. A site is available at Cedar Flats in the newly created Mt. Pilchuck State Park. The Board suggested a representative from Everett be appointed to investigate the ski area and to report to the Board by spring.

April 1954 -- manila vs. nylon ropes

A discussion conccerning climbing ropes was held, with the point made that the group needs at least four or five manila ropes. A motion to purchase two nylong ropes failed. A second motion was made to purchase two manila ropes was amended to four or five manila ropes; the comparitive virtues of nylon versus manila ropes resulted in the amendment being defeated and the main motion resulting in a tie.

A climbing fee was set at 25¢ for all climbs, instead of the usual 10¢ trail fee.

Oct 1966 -- 100 Hikes book

Trustee, Fran Lingenfelter reported that the printing of 5,000 copies of "100 Hikes in Western Washington", by Louise Marshall was sold out in four weeks and that money had been allocated for publication of "Medicine for Mountaineering". He discussed the possibility of The Mountaineers purchasing 320 acres of Trinity Mine propery in Chelan County, part of which is located in the Glacier Peak Wilderness area. Asking price was $165,000. The property's chief value was for conservation.

Conservation Chairman, Henry Kral, announced that Wallace Falls State Park exists only on paper because of a delay in acquiring the land.

Salmon Bake Chairman, Dorothy Philipp, announced a record breaking number of 214 reservations for the Salmon Bake which was held on October 2. The Annual Banquet was set for December 5, at the Elks Club. Prime Rib was tne entree' at a cost of $3.50 per person. Jim Whittaker had informally agreed to present the program.

References

The Mountaineers: a History Jim Kjeldsen, 1998
The Mountaineer, Vol III The Mountaineers, 1910 (See a copy)
The Mountaineer, Vol XXXII, Number 1, Dec 15, 1939
The Mountaineer, Vol 50 no. 1, Dec 28, 1956, "The Everett Branch 1909-1956", by Joan Astell
Cascade Alpine Guide, 2nd ed. Fred Beckey, 1996

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